December 4, Sunday, Day 60

Jedediah Smith State Park, California 124 mile jump (4549 from GR)

I awoke early to the sound of light rain falling. I really don’’t like packing up wet gear for fear of mold. So, we got up at 6 and packed everything away. We got most stuff in before the rain intensified. The forecast said it would subside around ten so we ate breakfast and I tried to read but ended up napping. Got up at ten and left at eleven, raining heavy at times and lighter at other times all the way south into California.

There was lots to see, but the rain made it undesirable to stop at viewpoints. We did see great coastline and interior forest and redwoods began to populate the landscape. We stopped in Brookings Oregon, for a Mc Donald’s senior decaf to supplement my alertness. I googled the map for Crescent City thinking that was between us and the Jedediah Smith State Park. However, had I been alert, I would have realized we should buy provisions in Brookings and go straight to the park without going to Crescent City. Oh well, only 20 miles and an hour wasted.

Then, when we got to JSSP, we had to fill with drinking water since this was primitive camping. The park was built within a redwood grove, so the roads and corners were all quite narrow. And, none of the drinking water faucets in the camping loops were treaded to allow a hose connection. Finally, we drove back up to the ranger’s kiosk and took on water (very tasty BTW).

Panoramic shot makes the trees appear to lean in.

Finding a nice pull thru spot between two massive trees, we rejoiced at our journey’s end! Doesn’t it seem that when things start going awry, we tend to dwell on the mistake and make more mistakes by not being in the present moment?

December 3, Saturday, Day 59

Bullards Beach SP

Today, a hike was on the agenda. There was a well defined trail to the beach from the campground. It was mostly flat with two dunes to climb. There were nice foot bridges built to portage the swampy areas, but there were also large puddles, er, ponds over the trail requiring fancy footwork to avoid getting one’s feet wet. Also, a lot of the trail was soft sand, so we spent time discussing what types of animals had made these tracks. We were sure about raccoons and deer, but debated about dogs and cougars.

The beach was mesmerizing. Wave after wave roared in. The few pieces of driftwood on this beach got dragged back into the surf as the tide was coming in and seemed to be pulled out and to our left only to be pushed back by us left to right. The waves were coming in from three slightly different directions causing a real conflict with the driftwood.

After showers and clean clothes, we headed for town to get propane. I dropped Penny off in Old Town Bandon while I washed the truck. We then went up to a state park viewpoint to see Table Rock and a number of other stack rocks just off the coast of Bandon. Table Rock is massive; I am guessing over 100’ tall and 1/4 mile long. Some waves would smash into it and spew up 2/3 of its steep sides. What an explosion!

Then it was off to Mass at nearby Holy Trinity, a quaint little old school Catholic church with an immigrant African priest having a heavy accent. I wondered why they handed us a copy of his sermon as we entered. His sermon was upbeat and funny. He told the story of a school teacher asking her class of second graders, “If I sell all my possessions and give the money to the poor, can I get into heaven?” And the students said, “No!”. She said, “Then what more do I need to do?”. One little boy excitedly raised his hand. When she called on him, he said,”You gotta be dead!” From there Fr. George pointed out that dying to one’s self (-centeredness) was the ticket to heaven here on earth and after we pass away.

December 2, Friday, Day 58

Today we rode our bikes for the first time in a long time, about six miles out to the lighthouse and back. Scavenging the beach for driftwood on which to mount some bird wings that we found last week, we noticed the blue light was flashing, so we brought home two pieces of driftwood for the price of one! Attention K-Mart shoppers! Take two, they are small!

After lunch, I did some maintenance, since the weather was so nice. The rain gutters on the Ship had become plugged with leafy material. That meant I had to pull a ladder out of the truck to ream the organic material out from under the bolts holding the awning to the top edge of the trailer. That didn’t take long. Then, the battery cables on the truck needed to be cleaned of corrosion. There are two batteries on a diesel, so four connections to clean; not a big deal. It is not all fun and games out here on the road!

December 1, Thursday, Day 57

Bullards Beach State Park, 130 mile jump

Moving south again, it is our hope to find sunnier skies and dry out. Beverly was a nice park, Newport a neat town, but no cell service for days on end is disconcerting with family and friends miles away. Days matter in a crisis; if a loved one needs you, the logistics to get to them are complicated. I don’t want to dwell on these thoughts, but they are real issues.

Leaving about 9:30 am, the overnight rains gave way to clear blues skies for a incredible ride down the Oregon Coast. Hwy 101 alternates inland through the Suislaw National Forest when the coast is too rugged and then moves along the edge of the cliffs on a roller coaster ride. The blue water and white capped surf sometimes hundreds of feet below and other times, seemingly touchable just outside the window. I could only catch an occasional glance or use my peripheral vision. Penny was enjoying an orgy of sights uttering lots of “oohs” and “ahs”! Even the inland forays climbed to dizzying heights above forested mountain lakes.

Our objective was a park called Umpqua Lighthouse State Park, but it was just noon when we arrived there. So, we agreed to push farther south after PB&J sandwiches and walking around exploring a placid little Lake Marie that had a great picnic area. The two remaining state parks with campgrounds on the 101 in Oregon were about 85 miles apart. Not wishing to drive that far, we chose the closer of the two, only about 40 miles away.

Shazam! Bullards Beach State Park has many pluses. It is flat with lots of room for bike rides, it is scarcely populated this time of year, the site we selected is groovy, the shower house is clean modern, they have recycling for many items, the quaint little tourist town, Bandon, is only a couple of miles south, and the cell service is great! It was recommended by Mike and Jean, who also said to get a child’s scoop of hard ice cream at the Creamery.

Once we got set up, had a snack and beer, we drove the three miles out to the tiny lighthouse that guards the Coquille River. The landscape was dramatically different from the rocky terrain we experienced so far on the 101. This is Oregon Dunes country, so lots of scrub pines and sand accent the area. From there, the Creamery and grocery store was on our radar.

Mike said, “don’t let them talk you into a double scoop”. I’m glad, because neither of us could finish our “child size”, that was at least two scoops. We brought still half filled containers back to the Ship’s freezer! And, they were only $2.00 each!

The blue skies and late afternoon made us think of the International Space Station. Luckily there are good sightings forecast for the next four nights. After getting groceries and ice cream put up, we headed for the light house; we missed the sunset but got to see the ISS clearly off to the south. In fact, it was passing right over San Fransisco. Tomorrow night will be higher in the sky, but Saturday night will be almost straight up.

I got the grill hooked up and Penny mixed spice and veggies into the ground beef. On the way out to the grill with a platter of four patties and two slices of cheese, the spatula caught up on the screen door and I dropped the plate face down on the asphalt! The waxed paper and cheese wrapper managed to protect most of it, but we had to scrape the grit off of a couple of the burgers. Call it carbs! The burgers were great with fresh tomatoes and avocados.

November 30, Wednesday, Day 56

BEVERLY BEACH SP

We are out of underwear and we need an oil change; our plan was to find the Dodge dealer and then find a nearby laundromat. It was slick; the dealer was 6 miles south of our park on the 101, in Newport, Oregon. To our amazement, there was a laundry right across the street! The appointment was for 10AM; Penny was nearly done folding when I got the truck back at 11:15. Perfect!

Hungry, we planned to head home for leftover turkey and dumplings. But, we have been looking at ways we might prolong the trailer battery life when primitive camping. The camper lighting is harsh and our goal was to minimize them for that reason, as well as their draw on the batteries. So, the idea of rechargeable batteries appealed to us. I know, they have their problems. So, we bought the NiMH batteries and charger that are reputed to be the best. We got a cheap four pack of 4” diameter touch LED lights that will be mounted under cabinets for reading/mood lighting.

Needless to say, we were really hungry driving back to camp. The turkey and dumplings were delicious and plentiful! Time for a 20 minute power nap, then utilize the remaining daylight for exploring this gorgeous Oregon coast. Yaquina Point Lighthouse is just outside of Newport, so we headed back there. The stack rock formations were so interesting, diverse in shape and size. The view from the south, north and west were all unique. Planning to catch the sunset from Beverly Beach, our camp, we turned back north the up coast for the second time today. The sunset at Beverly Beach was muted by a pesky cloud bank over the water, but we still managed some interesting photos full of color.

The campground is along this stream on the other side of Hwy 101

Beverly Beach sunset

A cute little girl, probably four, ran up to tell us she and her parents had just seen bear tracks on the beach. The parents joined us to tell us the bear prints were considerably larger than their very large dog’s. We found that very enlightening; trips to the shower house will be a lot more exciting!

November 29, Tuesday, Day 55

Beverly Beach State Park, 130 mile jump

A long day on the road, about 5 hours, but some sightseeing in beautiful Cannon Beach including breakfast factored in to that time. The Oregon Coast is truly spectacular, but at Tillamook, highway 101, turns inland and cuts through a lovely valley between sections of the Siuslaw National Forest. The sun was shining brightly, the grass was radiantly green, the livestock were feeding; it was bucolic!

Yaquina Point near Newport, Oregon

We arrived at our destination about 2PM, found a remote campsite, but were disappointed to find poor cell service. We had to drive out to the highway in order to call to set up an appointment for service on the truck. Otherwise, it is a nice place on the east side of the highway with beach access under the highway bridge. It has 126 RV sites, 128 tent sites and 21 yurts.

Dinner was grilled pork chops, green beans, leftover stuffing and sweet taters. Hot showers in a cool shower house before settling in for reading and writing.

Good night!

November 28, Monday, Day 54

FT STEVENS SP

The shipwreck was a bust, a small section the skeleton approximately 12’ x 12’ was all that remained. We drove to the historical military area of Ft. Stevens and hiked to the site of a Native American longhouse where the Clatsop people lived seasonally in summer for fishing and trading. Here too,  just an artifact remained, but its craftsmanship gave it a sense of dignity. A single cedar log about 10’ tall was standing plumb; it had been hand hewn to make the base look like stilts, making an arched doorway about 18” wide and 48” tall. Its top was also hewn to cradle the ridge pole as well as the rafter logs on each side.

It was a poignant moment imagining the brutal destruction of the amazing native way of life at the hands of the US military. Fortunately they are regaining some of that former dignity by taking the white man’s money in their casinos with which to build hospitals, schools, gyms, libraries, senior centers and more. Good for them!

The drive to Ft. Clatsop was interrupted by the sight of a small herd (15-20) of elk lounging on the corner lot of a residential neighborhood. The homeowner had cultivated a lush green grass and the elk were loving it. One bull and the rest were yearling or cows. They were unfazed by the traffic on the arterial, but became a little wary when the neighbor across the arterial came out to check his mailbox.

Ft. Clatsop was the highlight of the day. I had seen it about thirty years ago with my boys, but it was much better without distraction. The replica is a close approximation of the original due to Clark’s copious drawings and notes. The visitor’s center had many artifacts and information on the natives’ role in assisting the Corps of Discovery recuperate and replenish their supplies after arriving at their goal starving, sick, wearing rotting clothing. It is absolutely amazing they survived and returned to President Jefferson with a bounty of information on the new world.

We stopped at a bar and grill near the campsite for lunch of clam chowder and fish and chips before a late afternoon nap followed by FB posts of some of our adventures.

November 27, Sunday, Day 53

Ft. Stevens SP, 28 mile jump

Breaking camp after seven days in this historic park, we stopped back at the Salt Pub in order to get a view of the harbor in the daylight. And, we needed to kill some time so that we would arrive in the next park near check in time. After a coffee and tomato juice, we went out on the docks to see the boats, but the cool wind chased us back to the truck.

After 43 days and 3942 miles in the state of Washington, we crossed the Astoria bridge into Oregon reaching the Ft. Stevens State Park on the Clatsop Spit, 13 miles later. It is a huge park having 476 RV sites! Our chosen site was flat, remote from other campers (at least for now), and out from the dense trees. We are feeling a bit water logged and hope if the sun shines, it might dry us out a bit. It had not rained yet then, but started by late afternoon.

The south jetty the Columbia River; the Pacific is on the left.

 

Looking across the Columbia River at Cape Disappointment.

 

We listened to the Seahawks get beat, or beat themselves, called mom and listened to NPR. After hearing the weather forecast, we decided to move south on Tuesday to avoid the incoming cold front. Tomorrow we hope to see the replica native American longhouse, the wreck of the Peter Iredale, an English sailing ship that ran aground in a storm in 1906, and Ft. Clatsop, a replica of the building built by Lewis and Clark as winter quarters in 1805.

My amazing companion is at this moment boiling turkey carcass, preparing to make turkey and dumplings for dinner!

November 26, Saturday, Day 52

CAPE DISCOVERY SP       My Birthday

Surprise! It rained all night long, but it’s my birthday and we will find some fun somewhere. Excited like a schoolboy, I woke up before six; Penny was awake as well. We turned on the furnace and crawled out of bed after a short bit. I had noticed it was quite warm while getting up to pee during the night. The temperature doesn’t vary much; 47F-52F is what we’ve experienced. That’s not intolerable. We were busy writing postcards, this blog and recording our expenditures before breakfast. We went a bit stir crazy sitting and reading. So I said I wanted to hike in spite of the rain since we move on tomorrow to the opposite bank of the Columbia in Oregon.
First on the list was the North Head Lighthouse about 2 miles north. It’s a short drive and a short hike to the lighthouse from the parking lot, but it was raining pretty hard. Everything looked black and white. The surf, some 100’ below, streamed incessantly in a steady cadence from far to the north to the south as our eyes could see. The north jetty of the river was barely visible, but the jetty was the line of demarcation between the ocean and the river.

From the North Head, I tried to photograph the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse and include McKenzie Head in the frame. Heads are promontory rocks along a coastline. Clark and his party documented their visit to this promontory in 1805. They camped “a short distance from there”, which was in the area of where we were camped! The photo, was shot in the rain with an iPhone of a subject about 3 miles away, I was sure would be a discard. But, reviewing it later, I was overjoyed to have caught the light pointing directly at me!

After returning to the parking lot, we turned north up a paved trail to Bell”s View point. It was raining harder, but there were a few remnants of time gone by, such as an elevated wooden cistern, and gun batteries from WW I and WWII. The observation platform was quite new and top notch, but the view had become obscured by vegetation. Young men were walking up through the vegetation carrying fishing poles, but no fish. They weren’t properly outfitted for the weather; I wanted to ask them how they could fish from that promontory in these conditions. But they were racing to their car to get warm. We had better coats than they.

Penny was really cold and ready to throw in the towel, but after sitting in the warm truck while I peed, agreed to one last climb: McKenzie Head! We had the fan on high as we headed back toward our campsite, stopping short at the McKenzie Head trailhead. It was really raining. Penny gamely followed me up the hill for the first 200 yards. But it was steep and slippery; it was cold and wet. She knew I wanted to climb the entire distance, but stopped and said it was too much for her heart. I knew she would feel bad if I didn’t continue, so I gave her the keys and told her to go get warm. Once again the view was black and white in the rain, but I thought it quite lovely on top of McKenzie Head. I felt honored to stand in the spot those men had stood!

Back at the Ship, we cranked up the heat and stripped off our wet clothes and put on dry garments. We spent the afternoon reading to one another before hitting the sack for a rest. This was a rare date night, so we hit the showers and clipped nails, pulled hairs growing where they weren’t supposed to, and put on some clean clothes.

Our objective was oysters on the half shell; but where? The cashier at the grocery gave us two ideas. I knew where the first one was. I missed the turn into the parking lot and took the turn on the other side of the restaurant to loop around to the lot. Unfortunately, I missed a stop sign on the second right turn right in front of a state bull! Lights flashing, we got pulled over. After an interminable wait, he returned giving me a warning. Thank You! They didn’t have oysters anyway, so we went to the Castaway, where we enjoyed a dozen Willapa Bay oysters on the half shell and seafood lasagna of crab, cod, and shrimp, paired with a Pinot Gris. MMM!

From there we visited the Salt Pub on the marina where we had a beer and used their wireless to catch up on important matters. Who won the Apple Cup? Home by 7pm, we settled in and celebrated another amazing day. Tomorrow we leave Washington after six weeks of visiting friends and family, exploring remote and nearly pristine landscape, enduring rain, and believing the road goes on forever, the party never ends! I had a great birthday; I feel like a kid at 67. Like Peter Pan, I don’t want to grow up!

November 25, Friday, Day 51

CAPE DISCOVERY SP

We drove back up to the Interpretive Center to visit the gift shop for some post cards; it was not open the other day. While exploring the ruins of Ft. Canby, built on the Cape, circa. 1865, to defend the Columbia River, we discovered a trail to the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. This was fortunate since we were about to descend to the parking lot to what we had supposed to be the only trailhead. We avoided unnecessary effort and distance..

A tiny little cove between the lighthouse and the interpretive center

Across the Columbia is the south jetty and the coastal mountains behind

The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is still operating since 1856!

Penny looks good in the green house!

The route to the lighthouse did descend a little ways around a stunningly beautiful narrow cove into which the surf was crashing. Then it climbed up to lighthouse, build in 1856, and still operating. The view there was splendid! Signage told us about the main channel location and the dangerous regions hazardous to navigate.

After a trip to the store to procure celebratory birthday provisions, we returned to the Ship at dusk, to dry out, warm up and enjoy T day leftovers!