December 8, Thursday, Day 64

Lake Sonoma ACE Campground, 226 mile jump

The day was odd from start to finish. The trailer brake controller, a device that allows adjustment of pressure applied to those brakes from the driver’s seat, was not giving digital readings. It had a loose part bouncing around inside ever since I bought the truck. I felt that sooner or later, it would need to be replaced; today was the day. While Penny made sack lunches and got the interior secured for travel, I went into town for LP, diesel, and fast food breakfast. No LP was pumped nearby, so I punted on that. It wasn’t urgent. When we started to pull out of Widow White, I could not get the trailer brakes to operate, so I assumed whatever was rattling around inside the controller had shorted out the circuit board. We tried three stores before O’Reilly”s who had the parts we needed. After replacing the controller, I had the same problem. In my haste to leave, I had neglected to properly connect the trailer wiring harness to the truck. D’oh! On a positive note, there was LP for sale right across the street!

Things improved greatly from there as we travelled south on Hwy 101, we planned to travel the “Avenue of the Giants” scenic bypass. Actually, the Avenue was the original 101, which follows the Eel River through a steep canyon. The new 101 is mostly elevated above the river and the Avenue. It’s quite an engineering feat to bridge over the river back and forth and do limited impact on the valuable redwood stands in this 32 mile stretch.

Penny is hiding in this tree.
Looking up into the canopy.
A path along the top of the tree that grew from that root ball.
Huge rootball. Six feet of it is in the crater beneath it; ten feet exposed

 

The green sorrel is a beautiful carpet.

The Drury Cheney Grove was touted as the most scenic to walk; it was lovely! The colors were vibrant creating a huge contrast between the red of the needles and fallen trees and the green sorrel (like shamrocks). There was also a lot of the iridescent green moss covering the maples. The huge canopy had kept the underbrush down allowing one to see a long way into the forest. It was a beautiful walk 1.5 miles through a cornucopia of sensory delights. In spite of the thousands of trees we have witnessed in our travels, the awe factor is still high.

I have mentioned earlier how sacred these groves feel and that these ancient trees evoke a sense that they are beings. Well, I have evidence! In this grove, I found two distinct faces of tree beings and while in the Sitka Spruce grove a few weeks ago, a full body that appeared to be hugging a tree. I know, call me crazy!

A tree hugging creature
A round cheek face with pointy forehead
A bearded face looking over your left shoulder

We proceeded south on the “avenue”, stopping for a late picnic lunch overlooking the Eel river at Dyerville Junction and finally, the very cool Visitor’s Center. Unfortunately, we had almost used all of our daylight and could not stay there long enough to study the many exhibits. We still had almost an hour to our next campsite.

As we continued south on Hwy 101, it started to rain and fog was settling in. To be honest, we weren’t sure of the distance or difficulty getting from the 101 to our campsite. My, we were in for a surprise! First of all, I wanted diesel to be sure that we could get back to civilization. Did that. Then, my navigator was disagreeing with the directions to the Lake Sonoma ACE campground. She found a much shorter route that did save time, but darkness was upon us, add in the fog and we were severely handicapped.

The bridge across Lake Sonoma to our campsite on the other side of that hill.

It turns out the road we were on was just below an 300’ earthen dam holding back two creeks which now fed an enormous lake. We had to climb a first gear steep hill just to get to the bridge across the lake. We could barely see 20’ in any direction! Hoping we were there, we then met an equally steep hill to the campground gate. We were concerned about this gate as it was supposed to be locked and we did not know the combination. Fortunately, a ranger was waiting and helped us learn about the lock. He told us there was only one other camper in the whole park and to just pick a site. Then, it was back down the other side of the hill we had just climbed! The campground was on the side of that hill, off to our right.

In the fog, all the sites looked the same. They were adamant about not driving on the grass, so they lined the narrow road with large, jagged boulders. One of those caught the retractable stair step and bent its mounting frame. Bummer! I was unable to see the trailer in the side mirrors and while following a gentle curve got too close. The sites were too narrow to swing into. So, we settled on one that faced an intersection facilitating a easy entry. 6PM, heavy fog that feels like rain. Can’t see Penny’s hand signals, but got it in, chocked, leveled, stabilized and hooked to power. No cell service. Our pants were soaked; we cranked the heat, stripped off the wet clothes, and had a beer. Exasperated!

December 7, Wednesday, Day 63

WW RVP

I never left the campsite today. Penny went to town to shop, so I have had time to catch up on this blog and to secure reservations for our next two jumps. It frosted here last night; got down to 33F with some snow over on I-5 east of here. We decided to move south 200 miles in two jumps each to see if we can catch some warmer weather. So, in a few days we’ll be wearing shorts and sandals…..maybe.

Penny cooked down the remains of the rotisserie chicken we bought on the way to Jedediah Smith. Tonight we had chicken soup and Dave’s Killer bread for supper. It warmed our bodies and souls.

December 6, Tuesday, Day 62

Widow Whites RV Park, 82 mile jump

Before departing JSSP, we decided to take advantage of the nice modern, heated showers. You never know what waits at the next stop! We agreed that was one of the best public showers we have used in our travels. It cost $.25/minute, but a nice focused stream of hot water in a clean, newly tiled, co-ed room was well worth it!

Heading south through Crescent City, we noticed how vulnerable the town is to tsunami. It was devastated in 1964 by a wave from an Alaskan earthquake, the most powerful ever recorded, traveling 400 MPH! Of course in those days, there was no early warning, or any warning at all. Near midnight Good Friday, the first three of four waves hit, rousing the town. After a long pause, residents were relieved they survived, but then…disaster! Twelve were killed and 30 blocks of the town was destroyed, 60 inundated. 300 buildings, 1000 cars, and 25 large fishing vessels had been lost. Another tsunami hit in 2011 generated by an earthquake in Sendai, Japan.

Vulnerable. Life on the San Andreas or the Puget Sound faults. Life on the road. Life. We are vulnerable out here on the road, but life can be snatched away from any of us so quickly. So, let’s not forget to say “I love you” or call your dad or your grandma.

The drive went inland for quite a stretch before entering the old growth section of Del Norte Coast Redwood State Park where we were once again treated to stellar view of mammoth trees tight against both sides of the road and to the left and right. As the road came back to the beach, we encountered road construction delays as workers were driving pilings into the hillside to stabilize the ocean side lanes that had recently slid off the side of the cliff. Yikes!

Height 304′
Diameter 21.6′
Age 1500

 

The top of the Big Tree

We took a scenic detour after that on the Newton B. Drury Parkway; it paralleled the 101 and was actually shorter and less curvy, but only 45 MPH. We didn’t do that. We just coasted through as reverently as possible in that diesel powered limo. There we found the Big Tree!

Wow! I am out of words; you need to put this on your bucket list! It will astound and humble you.

We had to get our Mini Mac into an authorized dealer; the closest one was Arcata, Ca. No state or national campgrounds nearby. We found a retail park, Widow White’s, for $30/night full hookup. The showers were kinda creepy, but the price was right, so we signed up for two nights. Good thing we showered this morning!

We went to Simply Mac the next morning to find the computer was fine, but the monitor cable was the problem. Oh yes, good news!

December 5, Monday, Day 61

Jedediah Smith SP

After breakfast we hiked from the campsite to highway 199, so we could cross the Smith River in order to access the Hiouchi Trailhead. The trees in the campground were stunning, but following the river south just across from the campground brought us to many amazing specimens, both dead and alive. We came across a huge stump the trail went right through. It had to be 14’ in diameter and 18’ tall , but completely hollow inside with ”door” holes and fissures that let in the light. The oldest redwoods can be recognized by their gray bark; just like us older humans! The bark is impressive in its own right red or gray. We found it hard to capture the stupendous height of these trees on the camera, but I kept trying!

After our +/- 6 mile hike, it was lunchtime! Afterward, we got into the truck for a loop drive into the deep old growth forest. Traveling back to the 101, we went south through Crescent City turning east into the foothills to find the Howland Hill Road that passes the famous Stout Grove before crossing the South Fork of the Smith River where it meets the Hwy 199 leading back to the Ship. This was a narrow gravel road where I had to squeeze the truck between the trees in a few places. Meeting the occasional oncoming vehicle was a exercise in courtesy with each driver looking for a wide spot to edge into so the other could pass. Our side was often on the ravine side and Penny was spooked when I tried to get close to the edge to make room.

These huge Redwoods grow from this tiny cone!

This road was indescribable; I have used all my superlatives. Suffice it to say, we were overwhelmed by the experience. Penny said, “I feel like we are diesel powered thugs cruising through a sanctuary.” I felt guilty for my carbon footprint and prayed I was doing no harm. The thing is, my minuscule harm compounded with every other vehicle’s footprint has to have an effect.

The sanctuary metaphor is poignant. These large plants are so much more than just that! They have a presence as truly ancient beings. When standing quietly among them, one can almost detect a whispered “OM”. Did you know that there were 2 million acres of Redwoods? That was pre-Europeans. Luckily there were some thinking persons who acted in time to stop the wanton cutting of these ancients while there was still 40,000 acres left. Thanks be to God! In Michigan, lumberman cut down the White Pines leaving virtual no old growth. Shameful.

These Redwoods are 2000 years old. The Sequoia can be 3200 years. We are a short sighted lot. Are we not?

December 4, Sunday, Day 60

Jedediah Smith State Park, California 124 mile jump (4549 from GR)

I awoke early to the sound of light rain falling. I really don’’t like packing up wet gear for fear of mold. So, we got up at 6 and packed everything away. We got most stuff in before the rain intensified. The forecast said it would subside around ten so we ate breakfast and I tried to read but ended up napping. Got up at ten and left at eleven, raining heavy at times and lighter at other times all the way south into California.

There was lots to see, but the rain made it undesirable to stop at viewpoints. We did see great coastline and interior forest and redwoods began to populate the landscape. We stopped in Brookings Oregon, for a Mc Donald’s senior decaf to supplement my alertness. I googled the map for Crescent City thinking that was between us and the Jedediah Smith State Park. However, had I been alert, I would have realized we should buy provisions in Brookings and go straight to the park without going to Crescent City. Oh well, only 20 miles and an hour wasted.

Then, when we got to JSSP, we had to fill with drinking water since this was primitive camping. The park was built within a redwood grove, so the roads and corners were all quite narrow. And, none of the drinking water faucets in the camping loops were treaded to allow a hose connection. Finally, we drove back up to the ranger’s kiosk and took on water (very tasty BTW).

Panoramic shot makes the trees appear to lean in.

Finding a nice pull thru spot between two massive trees, we rejoiced at our journey’s end! Doesn’t it seem that when things start going awry, we tend to dwell on the mistake and make more mistakes by not being in the present moment?

December 3, Saturday, Day 59

Bullards Beach SP

Today, a hike was on the agenda. There was a well defined trail to the beach from the campground. It was mostly flat with two dunes to climb. There were nice foot bridges built to portage the swampy areas, but there were also large puddles, er, ponds over the trail requiring fancy footwork to avoid getting one’s feet wet. Also, a lot of the trail was soft sand, so we spent time discussing what types of animals had made these tracks. We were sure about raccoons and deer, but debated about dogs and cougars.

The beach was mesmerizing. Wave after wave roared in. The few pieces of driftwood on this beach got dragged back into the surf as the tide was coming in and seemed to be pulled out and to our left only to be pushed back by us left to right. The waves were coming in from three slightly different directions causing a real conflict with the driftwood.

After showers and clean clothes, we headed for town to get propane. I dropped Penny off in Old Town Bandon while I washed the truck. We then went up to a state park viewpoint to see Table Rock and a number of other stack rocks just off the coast of Bandon. Table Rock is massive; I am guessing over 100’ tall and 1/4 mile long. Some waves would smash into it and spew up 2/3 of its steep sides. What an explosion!

Then it was off to Mass at nearby Holy Trinity, a quaint little old school Catholic church with an immigrant African priest having a heavy accent. I wondered why they handed us a copy of his sermon as we entered. His sermon was upbeat and funny. He told the story of a school teacher asking her class of second graders, “If I sell all my possessions and give the money to the poor, can I get into heaven?” And the students said, “No!”. She said, “Then what more do I need to do?”. One little boy excitedly raised his hand. When she called on him, he said,”You gotta be dead!” From there Fr. George pointed out that dying to one’s self (-centeredness) was the ticket to heaven here on earth and after we pass away.

December 2, Friday, Day 58

Today we rode our bikes for the first time in a long time, about six miles out to the lighthouse and back. Scavenging the beach for driftwood on which to mount some bird wings that we found last week, we noticed the blue light was flashing, so we brought home two pieces of driftwood for the price of one! Attention K-Mart shoppers! Take two, they are small!

After lunch, I did some maintenance, since the weather was so nice. The rain gutters on the Ship had become plugged with leafy material. That meant I had to pull a ladder out of the truck to ream the organic material out from under the bolts holding the awning to the top edge of the trailer. That didn’t take long. Then, the battery cables on the truck needed to be cleaned of corrosion. There are two batteries on a diesel, so four connections to clean; not a big deal. It is not all fun and games out here on the road!

December 1, Thursday, Day 57

Bullards Beach State Park, 130 mile jump

Moving south again, it is our hope to find sunnier skies and dry out. Beverly was a nice park, Newport a neat town, but no cell service for days on end is disconcerting with family and friends miles away. Days matter in a crisis; if a loved one needs you, the logistics to get to them are complicated. I don’t want to dwell on these thoughts, but they are real issues.

Leaving about 9:30 am, the overnight rains gave way to clear blues skies for a incredible ride down the Oregon Coast. Hwy 101 alternates inland through the Suislaw National Forest when the coast is too rugged and then moves along the edge of the cliffs on a roller coaster ride. The blue water and white capped surf sometimes hundreds of feet below and other times, seemingly touchable just outside the window. I could only catch an occasional glance or use my peripheral vision. Penny was enjoying an orgy of sights uttering lots of “oohs” and “ahs”! Even the inland forays climbed to dizzying heights above forested mountain lakes.

Our objective was a park called Umpqua Lighthouse State Park, but it was just noon when we arrived there. So, we agreed to push farther south after PB&J sandwiches and walking around exploring a placid little Lake Marie that had a great picnic area. The two remaining state parks with campgrounds on the 101 in Oregon were about 85 miles apart. Not wishing to drive that far, we chose the closer of the two, only about 40 miles away.

Shazam! Bullards Beach State Park has many pluses. It is flat with lots of room for bike rides, it is scarcely populated this time of year, the site we selected is groovy, the shower house is clean modern, they have recycling for many items, the quaint little tourist town, Bandon, is only a couple of miles south, and the cell service is great! It was recommended by Mike and Jean, who also said to get a child’s scoop of hard ice cream at the Creamery.

Once we got set up, had a snack and beer, we drove the three miles out to the tiny lighthouse that guards the Coquille River. The landscape was dramatically different from the rocky terrain we experienced so far on the 101. This is Oregon Dunes country, so lots of scrub pines and sand accent the area. From there, the Creamery and grocery store was on our radar.

Mike said, “don’t let them talk you into a double scoop”. I’m glad, because neither of us could finish our “child size”, that was at least two scoops. We brought still half filled containers back to the Ship’s freezer! And, they were only $2.00 each!

The blue skies and late afternoon made us think of the International Space Station. Luckily there are good sightings forecast for the next four nights. After getting groceries and ice cream put up, we headed for the light house; we missed the sunset but got to see the ISS clearly off to the south. In fact, it was passing right over San Fransisco. Tomorrow night will be higher in the sky, but Saturday night will be almost straight up.

I got the grill hooked up and Penny mixed spice and veggies into the ground beef. On the way out to the grill with a platter of four patties and two slices of cheese, the spatula caught up on the screen door and I dropped the plate face down on the asphalt! The waxed paper and cheese wrapper managed to protect most of it, but we had to scrape the grit off of a couple of the burgers. Call it carbs! The burgers were great with fresh tomatoes and avocados.