December 18, Sunday, Day 73

Pismo SB

Sunday morning is a great day to shower in super hot water when it is 44F. The shower house is very modern, 50’ from our site, so it is a pleasure! $1 gets you two tokens; each token gets you three minutes of water.

We had a second snafu trying to find a church online; we headed for St Francis of Assisi for 9:30 Mass, but that one was locked up with no one around. St. Patrick’s was in nearby Arroyo Grande, but the next Mass was at 10:30. That gave us time to find a car wash; the truck looks like  a road warrior. I’ve washed it twice recently but highway driving in the rain quickly mitigates that. So, maybe this wash will last awhile!

St. Pat’s had a visiting priest; afterward, the person I asked about him did not know him either. He was a big, avuncular man who had a great sense of humor. He was advising the youngsters there to be good. He told the story of his nephew receiving an email from Santa Claus reminding him to be good or else he might get a box of batteries with a note saying, “Toys not included!” He punctuated the service with good natured humor and a sermon centered on remembering that the light of the Creator was inside each of us whether we recognize it or not. In times of trouble, this light is always there to guide us.

That afternoon, we ventured into the city of Pismo Beach to Scotty’s Sports Bar to watch Gonzaga vs Tennessee. My team is 10-0 for the first time ever having vanquished the likes of San Diego State, Arizona, Washington, Florida, and Iowa State. Luckily, there was on TV no-one was watching and I coerced the barkeep to switch to ESPN2. The refs really did their best to rally the home team, closing the lead from 18 points to 4 with 5 minutes left. Four Zags had 4 fouls making them a bit tight. In the end, the Bulldogs won by 10, moving them to a #7 ranking in the USA. Go Zags!

Later, we went for a bike ride to explore another camping loop in this campground. On a hunch, I pedaled past an “authorized vehicles only” sign to the where some of the rangers live, machinery and vehicles are stored. That area had a gate opening onto Hwy 1 and just across the road was the gate for the county campground to which we will move after Christmas. Our site was picked to be way back away from the rest of the crowd. Hopefully, we’ll get some sleep New Year’s Eve by being back there. I’ll let you know! The camp is long and thin with sites on the west backing up to Hwy 1 and on the east to a railroad track. There is a small boulevard between the two. The road isn’t that heavily travelled and at night not much at all. But, the Amtrak roars up and down SF to LA. We can hear that here; I am sure we’ll hear it there!

December 17, Saturday, Day 72

Pismo State Beach, 69 mile jump

A car hauler pulled in next to us before 5AM; its exhaust was noticeable as it idled for quite some time. That was a good incentive to get going. The frost on the windshield was 1/8” thick; the temp was 32F.

In Paso Robles we found a McDonalds for a breakfast sandwich and hot decaf. Concerned about tread wear on the back two tires of the trailer, we had time to kill and made some inquiries into tire shops and trailer repair garages. We were referred by a tire guy to a trailer guy. Thinking it would make sense to fix the cause of the poor wear we drove to the trailer garage. I thought his voice mail greeting said, “Open at 9 on Saturdays”. When he hadn’t showed up by 9:15, I called again; he said, “…most Saturdays”. The question is: if these tires lasted 10,000 miles and will cost $200 to replace, is it necessary to buy and install a new axle as well? We found the axles run about $200, but what about install? Guess we’ll find out next week.

We couldn’t check into the campground this early, so we decided to check out the San Luis Obispo (SLO) historic downtown. I have a fondness for the old missions, usually the flora in their courtyards are 250 year old specimens of outrageous proportions. And, they often have small museums showing the tools and machinery of the late 1700s. That appeared to be a good way to spend the morning and it was! There was a baptism of two babies in progress when we stepped into the church, so we sat in the back and listened as the priest concluded the rites. Both Penny and I felt the interior space to be warm and inviting; it was no frills, probably not much different than originally. But, it felt safe and secure. The courtyard garden did have a few old specimens, but not like I’d seen elsewhere. Their museum was quite interesting, however.

This is a mosaic made with nails!

Leaving the mission, we saw the SLO Art Gallery and toured that as well. It was free! The art was interesting, all local talent. There were three presenting artists and a craft room where others demonstrated their talents. That was a fun hour of browsing!

From there to our destination was less than ten miles. We found a “Whole Foods” market just off of our route, then found Pismo State Beach (PSB) campground. It is nestled in a eucalyptus grove buffered from the sea breezes by two sand dunes. We were pleased with our site, no view of the water, but the wind break is a plus. We walked over the dunes to have a look at the beach. Wow! It is about 100 yards to the water from the dunes and it goes for miles in both directions. Cars, SUVs, campers, dune buggies, cop cars, bikers, and pedestrians were going to and fro. It’s a regular thoroughfare! And, the scenery was eye popping!

The forecast called for sunshine the next 10 days, highs in the mid to upper 60s, lows in the 40s. There are hiking and biking trails here. A large lagoon having all kinds of waterfowl is just 100’ from our site. I have already snapped a photo of a red tailed hawk in flight directly above me. We have reservations here through the 26th, then we move to a county park a block away for 7 more days. That gets us into the New Year. We are thankful to have found this place and to be able to stay put through the holidays.

December 16, Friday, Day 71

Highway 101 Rest Stop, 145 mile jump

Between the wind rocking the Ship, the employees coming to work/getting off shift and my crazy paranoia, I didn’t get much sleep. We were eating breakfast nearby at 5AM and having a discussion about going back to the coast and through Big Sur. The wind had died, the skies were clearing. So, why not?

Using the Gas Buddy app we found diesel about 10 miles away for $.35/gal cheaper than the those in Salinas. And, it was over by the Hwy 1! The stretch of road there is brand new 4 lane limited access and it was bumper to bumper heading south to Monterey. We went downtown to the Fishermen’s Wharf, paid for 2 hours of parking and had a lovely time strolling the pier. The smell of the fish being processed there, the barking seals out on the jetty, the screeching of seagulls flying about provided a very maritime scene.The sun was streaming through broken clouds, a little brisk breeze, but warm sunshine as well.

By 10AM, we were searching for the post office in Monterey to get my projects on their way in time for Christmas. It is an old tourist town with lots of shops, narrow streets, and limited parking. Lo and behold, as we located the PO we found two parking spaces on the street that I was able to pull into and later pull out. They were right in front of an art gallery; Penny got to peruse the shop while I mailed packages.

From there my excitement swelled knowing that next was the “17 Mile Drive”. It is a tour through the Del Monte Forest and the spectacular Pacific coast surrounding the iconic Pebble Beach golf course. I have taken this drive twice before, but wanted to show Penny the incredible beauty.

After about 90 minutes of gawking, we decided to skip the town of Carmel so that we could have more choices available when we arrived at Kirk Creek campground south of Big Sur in the National Forest. There was also Plaskett Creek a bit further south; both first come, first serve, no reservations. Both are primitive, but at $11/night would slow the cash flow.

Shortly after departing Carmel while my navigator was checking time and distance to Big Sur, I spied a reader board that said, “Road closed 4 miles south of Big Sur”. Luckily I saw it; it would have meant 30 miles to the roadblock with no option but to turn back. The Santa Lucia mountains east of the Big Sur coast are so formidable there are no roads to the Hwy 101.

As it was, we still had to backtrack to north and east to Salinas, about 45 miles. It was somewhat disconcerting that we reached our starting point about 2PM. We humored each other by calling the morning a “day trip”. What a nice trip it was! So, we set out for points south on the 101, not really having a plan. Knowing I was short on sleep an hour or two was going to do. About 3PM, we found a rest stop where we decided to eat a good lunch and take a nap. The driver was pretty much toast after that and decided to just stay there. we busied ourselves with reading and writing, looking at pictures, etc, just to stay awake long enough to stay on rhythm so as to get night’s sleep. It was clear and cold; the stars were brilliant. We were out walking the grounds studying the information boards on the history, wildlife, vegetation, etc., with a flashlight just to keep ourselves awake till 10ish. That worked pretty well; we slept much better than the previous night.

December 15, Thursday, Day 70

Walmart parking lot, 111 mile jump

Showers were the first order of business; at 6AM at 54F with wind gusts that rocked the Ship all night, I walked to the shower in minimal dress, flip flops, shorts, sweat shirt, towel, wash cloth, soap and shampoo. AKA, commando! The less clothing to get wet the better; there is often no heat in the shower other than the hot water. That’s why I go early. I want to be sure to get the water that has been percolating all night. The walk to and fro is an exhilarating wake me up! Try it sometime! Penny is a convert; normally, she over dresses for fear of getting cold. But she gets the commando thing for shower houses; it’s the Nordic sauna, then jump in the snowbank kind of experience. Seriously, try it!

Mira with Santa!
Katie, Alison, and Emma getting ready for Christmas!

Christmas is coming! I need to do something for my Mom. I call her every Sunday to tell her the details of our adventures. She is virtually homebound now. My sister gets her out of the house once in awhile, but she is always apologizing for having nothing new to talk about. I try to help her live vicariously through us with my stories. But, you know a picture is worth a 1,000 words. So, I copied three dozen pictures from my library to a thumb drive; the next time we see a Walgreens, CVS, or Walmart. I’ll be ready.

It was only about 100 miles to the next destination, so we didn’t have to leave too early; we could make use of the park electricity to run the computer. The rain subsided as we left HMB for points unknown, probably Salinas, Ca., a name you’ve probably seen on produce bags. It’s a fertile agricultural area growing grapes, strawberries, Brussel spouts, to name a few.

It rained intermittently on the road, but the headwind was fierce. The truck seemed like we had taken on a load of cement. I would have preferred a tail wind, but feel lucky it wasn’t a cross wind! We arrived there about 2PM and headed straight to the post office to send a few packages off. After which, we pulled into a Walmart parking lot and found a spot along the perimeter right in front of a sign that said, “NO overnight, truck, trailer, or RV parking”. We garnered some courage counting three other RVs out in the open. Twice before, we have done this with no issues, but there were no signs in those instances.

The least we could do was patronize them while we were squatting on their property. Feeling somewhat hypocritical based on my feelings on their business model, I remembered I had no high ground from which to preach. I thought of our expenditures as a quid pro quo, and rationalized my behavior.

Whatever, I hit the picture kiosk with my thumb drive, printed them, and picked out a few Christmas cards. Penny was shopping for foodstuff; we got everything except a photo album. The gal in the photo department said to get one at Ross, in the same cluster of stores on this parking lot.

I was tickled to have a project to take my mind off of my deep guilt for being such a desperado. And, how much cheaper a campsite would seem compared to a parking ticket. After a couple of hours, I had the album filled and annotated, the cards personalized, all addressed and stamped. Then I started to really worry, but all I needed was another rationalization! The sign says “overnight”! Is that dusk to dawn? Or, 9-5? I figured if we left really early, we could argue it wasn’t really overnight. Another camper pulled in right behind me! Ah, strength in numbers!

December 14, Wednesday, Day 69

Half Moon Bay SB

We ran out of water in our holding tank this morning. Had to tow the Ship over to the drinking water spigot and fill it. Then, reset it all, but it didn’t take us long. I just didn’t realize we could possibly use that much water in four days. I thought it was full; maybe it wasn’t when we got here?

Then, I caught up on this blog. I got behind when we were primitive camping at Lake Sonoma. It was about that time I checked the weather down in Big Sur where we plan to camp on our next jump. It didn’t look good! Heavy rains, high winds, and high tides (KING tides-higher than high!) made us give up on the Big Sur tour. The alternative was the Hwy 101 route, easier driving,  but not as scenic. And, where to sleep? Well, we’ll figure something out.

Not wanting to get too wet tomorrow morning, I unlocked the bikes from the picnic table, folded up the rain tarp, dismantled the bikes and stowed them in the back of the truck. Once the bikes go in the truck, all the other stuff in there is very difficult to reach.

December 13, Tuesday, Day 68

Half Moon Bay SB

Reservations work filled our morning, but we were successful in getting accommodations into the new year except two nights this week when we will be passing Big Sur and some national campgrounds that are first come, first serve. We are trusting in providence that those will work out. There are nice retail camps available as Plan B, but we need to slow down the amount of money going to camp sites. State parks are averaging $50/night; a primitive national will probably be $11/night. Two nights saves $78! California is expensive; even the county parks are about the same as the state. We hope to find ACE parks in Arizona because of all the dams. They are usually outstanding, notwithstanding the last one in which we stayed. The previous Army Corps camps had flat concrete slabs with water and electric at the sites   for $11 for seniors. That’s how we saved money last year.

Needing to break the tension of reservation work, we walked the beach, which seemed to relieve Penny. But I needed more; I jumped on my bike for a 9 mile ride. That did the trick!

Penny was sketching when I arrived; I warmed leftover spaghetti for a late lunch. Penny continued her work; I posted FB pictures of the bridge. Then I pan fried the snapper and Penny made beets with the greens. What an awesome meal! We even had Haagen Dazs ice cream bars for dessert.

December 12, Monday, Day 67

I had an intuition that Monday AM would be a great day to go into SF to see the bridge, and the Golden Gate Park (GGP). We left at 9 and arrived in GGP about 10. I was a little fuzzy on how to get down to the north side of the bridge on the SF side. I thought that was part of GGP. However, I was wrong. In GGP are the de Young Art Museum, the Japanese Tea Gardens, the Botanical Gardens, Conservatory of Flowers, the California Academy of Sciences and many other attractions. But these don’t offer views of the bridge.

Lands End Lookout was a welcome find. As we viewed the GGB from the lookout, it was off to our northeast. Incredibly, as we walked toward the bridge on the coastal trail, a huge freighter heading in from sea. It was orange like the bridge; I smiled, thinking: good photo op on the way. In the long wait for that vessel to get close to the bridge another freighter approached from the other side and a sailboat moved into the frame. My smile got bigger! I did get some nice photos.

 

Next, we stopped at the gun batteries that used to guard the straits where we could look directly north through the bridge and see the traffic moving in both directions. Finally, we followed the road down under the GGB approach above us to the NPS historical site. This is what I was looking for: a park with a fishing pier, picnic tables in the grass, a gift shop and cafe, and a killer view of the east side of the bridge about 150 yards away! Sack lunch at a table in the sun with seagulls and pelicans, outstanding. Great photos, too!

The National Cemetery at The Presidio, GGP,  San Fransisco

Needing to leave by 3PM to miss the rush, we visited the Presidio National Cemetery and moved to GGP, where I hoped to take Penny to the art museum, but as she suspected, they were closed on Monday. Option two was the Japanese Tea Garden that was quite relaxing and zen filled.

At 3PM, we were in the truck heading south toward HMB; traffic was not a big problem, no stop and go. Stopping for fresh fish, we got red snapper fillets. Oh boy!

December 11, Sunday, Day 66

Half Moon Bay SB

Sunrise on our first morning in Half Moon Bay looking east
Sunrise looking west

What a difference a day makes! As soon as I opened the door to head for the shower, I could see the dawn light illuminating the eastern sky. The skies had cleared over night; it was 44F. After my shower, I was able to snap some great sunrise pics from the east and even some to the west! Penny and I rejoiced that there was a sidewalk near our site leading down to the beach that was about 100’ away. The view of the Pacific from the Ship was virtually unobstructed; We were tickled at our good fortune and immediately signed up for 3 more days here, making a total of 5; our 400 mile jump has found us a little warmer and a bit less rainy weather.

The church here was on the same street as the park; we headed for 9am Mass, but found 8AM Mass just wrapping up. The website was not accurate; the next one was at 10AM. We used the time to bring the navigator up to speed on the Gas Buddy ap. She had an opportunity to find diesel here in HMB at a good price and get directions to the station where we bought $50 worth. We checked out the historic part of town, including the Post Office where we mailed postcards.

The priest was also an African immigrant, Fr Joseph. The congregation was diverse, young and old, gringos and latinos, but all friendly and seemingly happy. The message was about the ways we can live out the Gospel call to visit the sick, clothe the poor, and cure the leper! He said today’s lepers are those marginalized folks we see, but would rather not come too close. He gave a number of examples of things we could do to help them. Things such as fast food gift certificates instead of money so that they might buy food instead of booze.

Crazy house up the beach on the coastal trail. Look carefully; it’s spiked!

After that, we went on an 8 mile bike ride north on the Coastal Trail. It was really flay and people were out riding, walking, skating. It was a bit breezy making a wind chill, more on the way north into the wind than south for the ride home. We both felt good about the ride!

December 10, Saturday, Day 66

Half Moon Bay (HMB) State Beach, 113 mile jump

Leaving Lake Sonoma at 8;30 AM, I was very excited to cross the Golden Gate Bridge (GGB) but a heavy, wet marine layer of fog had set in. We were wondering if our transponder would pay the toll or how much cash we would need if not. My navigator spied a sign on that subject and proceeded to call the listed number. She managed to set up paying for the toll just as we approached the bridge. By that time, we were in a down pour and our vision was once again obscured. So, we figured it would be possible to come back another brighter day without the trailer and continued south on Hwy 1, the coast highway. The 101 stays inland all the way to Pismo Beach from here.

We arrived in HMB at noon; check in time was 2PM. Luckily, the site was empty and they allowed us to set up. It was 59F and raining hard, so we hung out inside. The cell phone signal was strong, but the park Wi-Fi was not. My personal hotspot worked great!

 

This little hawk looks bedraggled from all the rain.

Off to Safeway, we bought Anchor Steam beer, a San Francisco (SF) craft beer first brewed in 1896, but rejuvenated in 1965 and first modern bottling in 1971. The craft pack had the original Krauseling, an amber, a lager, and an IPA. Tasty! I bought their beer years ago but hadn’t had one for some time. It went well with the shrimp and rice Penny prepared.

We were getting desperate trying to find campsites in the national forests which are way less $ than the $50/night state parks. Of course, the NFS parks are remote and have no power or water hookups. Plus, we failed to recognize that everybody and their uncle go camping between Christmas and New Year’s. So that was our next challenge. After a few hours, we did get into Pismo Beach SB from 12/17-12/26! Taking that as a victory, we called it a night at 11PM.

Penny got a shower and I opted to wait until morning. She said the shower was nice and hot!

December 9, Friday, Day 65

LAKE SONOMA ACE CAMPGROUND

Steep terrain that would have grapes growing if not a park.

This was a mellow day. The fog lifted, allowing us to see the huge hills towering over the man made lake. Walked around the grounds a bit, but it was very steep terrain, so we did not go far. On the way to town to do laundry, we travelled through very colorful vineyards. On the way home we used the opportune sunshine to photo them.