November 30, Wednesday, Day 56

BEVERLY BEACH SP

We are out of underwear and we need an oil change; our plan was to find the Dodge dealer and then find a nearby laundromat. It was slick; the dealer was 6 miles south of our park on the 101, in Newport, Oregon. To our amazement, there was a laundry right across the street! The appointment was for 10AM; Penny was nearly done folding when I got the truck back at 11:15. Perfect!

Hungry, we planned to head home for leftover turkey and dumplings. But, we have been looking at ways we might prolong the trailer battery life when primitive camping. The camper lighting is harsh and our goal was to minimize them for that reason, as well as their draw on the batteries. So, the idea of rechargeable batteries appealed to us. I know, they have their problems. So, we bought the NiMH batteries and charger that are reputed to be the best. We got a cheap four pack of 4” diameter touch LED lights that will be mounted under cabinets for reading/mood lighting.

Needless to say, we were really hungry driving back to camp. The turkey and dumplings were delicious and plentiful! Time for a 20 minute power nap, then utilize the remaining daylight for exploring this gorgeous Oregon coast. Yaquina Point Lighthouse is just outside of Newport, so we headed back there. The stack rock formations were so interesting, diverse in shape and size. The view from the south, north and west were all unique. Planning to catch the sunset from Beverly Beach, our camp, we turned back north the up coast for the second time today. The sunset at Beverly Beach was muted by a pesky cloud bank over the water, but we still managed some interesting photos full of color.

The campground is along this stream on the other side of Hwy 101

Beverly Beach sunset

A cute little girl, probably four, ran up to tell us she and her parents had just seen bear tracks on the beach. The parents joined us to tell us the bear prints were considerably larger than their very large dog’s. We found that very enlightening; trips to the shower house will be a lot more exciting!

November 29, Tuesday, Day 55

Beverly Beach State Park, 130 mile jump

A long day on the road, about 5 hours, but some sightseeing in beautiful Cannon Beach including breakfast factored in to that time. The Oregon Coast is truly spectacular, but at Tillamook, highway 101, turns inland and cuts through a lovely valley between sections of the Siuslaw National Forest. The sun was shining brightly, the grass was radiantly green, the livestock were feeding; it was bucolic!

Yaquina Point near Newport, Oregon

We arrived at our destination about 2PM, found a remote campsite, but were disappointed to find poor cell service. We had to drive out to the highway in order to call to set up an appointment for service on the truck. Otherwise, it is a nice place on the east side of the highway with beach access under the highway bridge. It has 126 RV sites, 128 tent sites and 21 yurts.

Dinner was grilled pork chops, green beans, leftover stuffing and sweet taters. Hot showers in a cool shower house before settling in for reading and writing.

Good night!

November 28, Monday, Day 54

FT STEVENS SP

The shipwreck was a bust, a small section the skeleton approximately 12’ x 12’ was all that remained. We drove to the historical military area of Ft. Stevens and hiked to the site of a Native American longhouse where the Clatsop people lived seasonally in summer for fishing and trading. Here too,  just an artifact remained, but its craftsmanship gave it a sense of dignity. A single cedar log about 10’ tall was standing plumb; it had been hand hewn to make the base look like stilts, making an arched doorway about 18” wide and 48” tall. Its top was also hewn to cradle the ridge pole as well as the rafter logs on each side.

It was a poignant moment imagining the brutal destruction of the amazing native way of life at the hands of the US military. Fortunately they are regaining some of that former dignity by taking the white man’s money in their casinos with which to build hospitals, schools, gyms, libraries, senior centers and more. Good for them!

The drive to Ft. Clatsop was interrupted by the sight of a small herd (15-20) of elk lounging on the corner lot of a residential neighborhood. The homeowner had cultivated a lush green grass and the elk were loving it. One bull and the rest were yearling or cows. They were unfazed by the traffic on the arterial, but became a little wary when the neighbor across the arterial came out to check his mailbox.

Ft. Clatsop was the highlight of the day. I had seen it about thirty years ago with my boys, but it was much better without distraction. The replica is a close approximation of the original due to Clark’s copious drawings and notes. The visitor’s center had many artifacts and information on the natives’ role in assisting the Corps of Discovery recuperate and replenish their supplies after arriving at their goal starving, sick, wearing rotting clothing. It is absolutely amazing they survived and returned to President Jefferson with a bounty of information on the new world.

We stopped at a bar and grill near the campsite for lunch of clam chowder and fish and chips before a late afternoon nap followed by FB posts of some of our adventures.

November 27, Sunday, Day 53

Ft. Stevens SP, 28 mile jump

Breaking camp after seven days in this historic park, we stopped back at the Salt Pub in order to get a view of the harbor in the daylight. And, we needed to kill some time so that we would arrive in the next park near check in time. After a coffee and tomato juice, we went out on the docks to see the boats, but the cool wind chased us back to the truck.

After 43 days and 3942 miles in the state of Washington, we crossed the Astoria bridge into Oregon reaching the Ft. Stevens State Park on the Clatsop Spit, 13 miles later. It is a huge park having 476 RV sites! Our chosen site was flat, remote from other campers (at least for now), and out from the dense trees. We are feeling a bit water logged and hope if the sun shines, it might dry us out a bit. It had not rained yet then, but started by late afternoon.

The south jetty the Columbia River; the Pacific is on the left.

 

Looking across the Columbia River at Cape Disappointment.

 

We listened to the Seahawks get beat, or beat themselves, called mom and listened to NPR. After hearing the weather forecast, we decided to move south on Tuesday to avoid the incoming cold front. Tomorrow we hope to see the replica native American longhouse, the wreck of the Peter Iredale, an English sailing ship that ran aground in a storm in 1906, and Ft. Clatsop, a replica of the building built by Lewis and Clark as winter quarters in 1805.

My amazing companion is at this moment boiling turkey carcass, preparing to make turkey and dumplings for dinner!

November 26, Saturday, Day 52

CAPE DISCOVERY SP       My Birthday

Surprise! It rained all night long, but it’s my birthday and we will find some fun somewhere. Excited like a schoolboy, I woke up before six; Penny was awake as well. We turned on the furnace and crawled out of bed after a short bit. I had noticed it was quite warm while getting up to pee during the night. The temperature doesn’t vary much; 47F-52F is what we’ve experienced. That’s not intolerable. We were busy writing postcards, this blog and recording our expenditures before breakfast. We went a bit stir crazy sitting and reading. So I said I wanted to hike in spite of the rain since we move on tomorrow to the opposite bank of the Columbia in Oregon.
First on the list was the North Head Lighthouse about 2 miles north. It’s a short drive and a short hike to the lighthouse from the parking lot, but it was raining pretty hard. Everything looked black and white. The surf, some 100’ below, streamed incessantly in a steady cadence from far to the north to the south as our eyes could see. The north jetty of the river was barely visible, but the jetty was the line of demarcation between the ocean and the river.

From the North Head, I tried to photograph the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse and include McKenzie Head in the frame. Heads are promontory rocks along a coastline. Clark and his party documented their visit to this promontory in 1805. They camped “a short distance from there”, which was in the area of where we were camped! The photo, was shot in the rain with an iPhone of a subject about 3 miles away, I was sure would be a discard. But, reviewing it later, I was overjoyed to have caught the light pointing directly at me!

After returning to the parking lot, we turned north up a paved trail to Bell”s View point. It was raining harder, but there were a few remnants of time gone by, such as an elevated wooden cistern, and gun batteries from WW I and WWII. The observation platform was quite new and top notch, but the view had become obscured by vegetation. Young men were walking up through the vegetation carrying fishing poles, but no fish. They weren’t properly outfitted for the weather; I wanted to ask them how they could fish from that promontory in these conditions. But they were racing to their car to get warm. We had better coats than they.

Penny was really cold and ready to throw in the towel, but after sitting in the warm truck while I peed, agreed to one last climb: McKenzie Head! We had the fan on high as we headed back toward our campsite, stopping short at the McKenzie Head trailhead. It was really raining. Penny gamely followed me up the hill for the first 200 yards. But it was steep and slippery; it was cold and wet. She knew I wanted to climb the entire distance, but stopped and said it was too much for her heart. I knew she would feel bad if I didn’t continue, so I gave her the keys and told her to go get warm. Once again the view was black and white in the rain, but I thought it quite lovely on top of McKenzie Head. I felt honored to stand in the spot those men had stood!

Back at the Ship, we cranked up the heat and stripped off our wet clothes and put on dry garments. We spent the afternoon reading to one another before hitting the sack for a rest. This was a rare date night, so we hit the showers and clipped nails, pulled hairs growing where they weren’t supposed to, and put on some clean clothes.

Our objective was oysters on the half shell; but where? The cashier at the grocery gave us two ideas. I knew where the first one was. I missed the turn into the parking lot and took the turn on the other side of the restaurant to loop around to the lot. Unfortunately, I missed a stop sign on the second right turn right in front of a state bull! Lights flashing, we got pulled over. After an interminable wait, he returned giving me a warning. Thank You! They didn’t have oysters anyway, so we went to the Castaway, where we enjoyed a dozen Willapa Bay oysters on the half shell and seafood lasagna of crab, cod, and shrimp, paired with a Pinot Gris. MMM!

From there we visited the Salt Pub on the marina where we had a beer and used their wireless to catch up on important matters. Who won the Apple Cup? Home by 7pm, we settled in and celebrated another amazing day. Tomorrow we leave Washington after six weeks of visiting friends and family, exploring remote and nearly pristine landscape, enduring rain, and believing the road goes on forever, the party never ends! I had a great birthday; I feel like a kid at 67. Like Peter Pan, I don’t want to grow up!

November 25, Friday, Day 51

CAPE DISCOVERY SP

We drove back up to the Interpretive Center to visit the gift shop for some post cards; it was not open the other day. While exploring the ruins of Ft. Canby, built on the Cape, circa. 1865, to defend the Columbia River, we discovered a trail to the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. This was fortunate since we were about to descend to the parking lot to what we had supposed to be the only trailhead. We avoided unnecessary effort and distance..

A tiny little cove between the lighthouse and the interpretive center

Across the Columbia is the south jetty and the coastal mountains behind

The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is still operating since 1856!

Penny looks good in the green house!

The route to the lighthouse did descend a little ways around a stunningly beautiful narrow cove into which the surf was crashing. Then it climbed up to lighthouse, build in 1856, and still operating. The view there was splendid! Signage told us about the main channel location and the dangerous regions hazardous to navigate.

After a trip to the store to procure celebratory birthday provisions, we returned to the Ship at dusk, to dry out, warm up and enjoy T day leftovers!

November 24, Thanksgiving, Day 50

CAPE DISCOVERY SP

Penny made stuffing last night. I made brownies. Today was prepping for a big feast. We had the butcher at the store cut a fresh turkey in half; Penny made gravy using the giblets, neck and such. Sweet potatoes and homemade cranberry sauce rounded out our Thanksgiving dinner. Oh; let’s not forget a bottle of Syrah! We were too stuffed for dessert.

For me, I have so much for which to be thankful. I am living my dream of life as a nomad. I have found a companion to share this voyage of discovery. We consider this life extravagant; we eat like royalty, drink good beer, see amazing sights, and dance to our favorite music in the confines of our tiny house. Our meager retirement income is enough to sustain us. Our health is made strong by living in the outdoors; we walk and ride exploring this great landscape. We feel a sense of “enoughness”, we live in abundance and we are in no hurry (most of the time, except the seven day trip to the continental divide).

I am humbled that the Great Spirit that animates my life and the lives of all the living plants and animals has blessed me, an unworthy servant, with such grace!

November 23, Wednesday, Day 49

CAPE DISCOVERY SP

Grocery shopping at 9am to beat the Thanksgiving rush, refilling LP tank, a little birthday shopping and book store browsing. Using the opportunity to use our phones to catch up on email, texts, and bills, we spent time in the truck typing on our phones. We have no signal at our campground.

After returning to lunch at the Ship and put away groceries, we went exploring the park. We went to the south end of the park to check out the north jetty of the mouth of the Columbia. It partners with the south jetty to increase the water speed of the river in order to move silt out to deeper water. In the past, many boats (three in one week) sunk on the sand bar created by the wide slow mouth.

The upper photo is looking east; the Columbia is on the right. The lower is looking west putting the Columbia to the left. The north jetty is 2.5 miles long; we walked out as far as a pile of boulders impeded our progress. It was from there these photos were taken.

Exiting the truck felt like we were stepping into a wind tunnel. As we walked across the beach towards the jetty the sand was blowing into ours faces carried by 30 MPH winds. But, we pressed on, climbing huge boulders to the top of the jetty where it was virtually flat. It might have been a half mile before we were stopped by four large rocks that we assumed were the end of the jetty, but, no. It went out another 1/2 mile! We did not.

The waves and water were distinctly different on each side of the jetty. The river had large rolling waves moving inland. It was a bit brown from the silt. The Pacific was foreboding white capped surf. Walking back to the truck was much more pleasant with the wind at our backs!

From there, we went to the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center high on a bluff overlooking the mouth of the Columbia; what a view! The wind was howling and rain pelted us as we reached the bluff and hurried indoors. We spend almost two hours examining the history of the Corps of Discovery; what an accomplishment! They only lost one man to a probable ruptured appendix.
The slave, York, and the woman, Sacquegwea, got to vote on winter quarters, but neither got paid for their efforts. We have come a long way, baby!

The interpretive center is  in the middle background. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is to its right on the point.

November 21, Monday, Day 47

CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT SP, 45 mile jump

Penny did her Tai Chi in a clearing in the trees overlooking Willipa Bay. I did my meditations and we left around 11am feeling excited that we could stay at least a week in one place to catch our breath, do some reading, writing, relaxing. Yes!

Walking down to the beach, we were astonished to find black sand that had glitter in it. We came upon two men digging the sand and running it though a sluice to draw out the gold. Sorry, we could photograph the black sand but not the sparkles.

There were interesting things to photograph all around. The North Head Lighthouse, the rock formations at the base of the north head, the driftwood, the seabirds, and a Bald Eagle which flew towards us about 20’ above the sand. I decided to be in the moment and put my camera down. It watched us as it flew by; we spun around to watch his brilliant white tail disappear as it moved away. Magical! Thank You!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

November 20, Sunday, Day 46

Pacific County RV Park, 144 mile jump

 

We took our time leaving Kalaloch; it was very alluring. So, we walked the beach again under bright clouds with smiling faces. We left about 11:30 heading for Ocean City SP, west of Hoquiam about 16 miles. The website looked good and it was about half way to our true destination, Cape Disappointment State Park on the north bank of the mouth of the Columbia River. We drove to the Ocean City SP, but it was basically flooded, with puddles of water in almost all campsites and covering the road in places. We discarded and thought we might get to the Cape before dark, but we needed lunch and diesel.  After we realized we would be setting up camp in the dark at the Cape, Penny fortunately spied a road sign for a county RV park!

So, we pulled in to a grassy field with some some puddles, but nothing serious. They had water and electric for $25. The site was so level we didn’t have to unhook from the truck. That’s a plus! We cooked a sirloin on the BBQ and called my mom, daughter Casey and a bunch of friends to catch up. That was fun!  

It’s good to stay connected on the road; family and friends worry when they hear bad weather reports or just wonder if you are OK.

Penny doing Tai Chi early morning